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Aktuelle Version vom 11:26, 11. Mai 2012

stone wall cladding - Stone is a defining feature in any room and adds instant solidity, luxury and grandness whether you choose to cover all your walls with marble or perhaps use it for a simple round basin. Although stone is an extremely tough material once installed, the self -builder should take special care to see the delivery and installation process runs smoothly. Dirt from traffic or a careless knock from your power tool could lead to an expensive repair bill. Keep your room clean and tidy, check larger items for instance a stone bath, can fit by way of a door entrance (you may have to leave off architrave/frames allowing extra room). The weight of stonework does mean that it should be planned in at the home's design stage as load-bearing joists might need to be increased in size or even doubled as much as cope with the weight.

Preparing floors

A fresh concrete screed is the perfect base for stone flooring, as long as the concrete is fully cured. New concrete needs to be at least six weeks old and show no signs and symptoms of remaining moisture. You may need to use a thin screed of self-leveling compound to even out any low spots. Again, leave the compound to fully cure before tiling.

If you are working on new flooring grade T&G chipboard panels, make sure the edges are fixed at 300mm centers and tile on the surface with a flexible adhesive all of the trade adhesive manufacturers have powder mixes intended for timber flooring. To get a restoration project, never attempt to tile directly onto old floorboards. Instead, produce a new sub-base with 15mm exterior grade plywood, screwed down at 300mm centers with stainless steel screws. Stagger the board joints and adjust any uneven floorboards prior to starting work. Coat the boards with thinned PVA to seal the wood.

Old cork and vinyl flooring should always be pulled up. Look at the floor beneath is dry, flat and strong enough to support the new stone tiling. If you're up against quarry or ceramic tiles, it is possible to tile directly over the surface as long as there aren't any signs of damp, cracking or movement. Prime the existing tile surface to offer the adhesive a key' for bonding and make set out your new tiles so the grout gaps aren't aligned using the existing floor. The exceptions are shower or wet room walls that ought to be lined with a waterproof lining panel to supply the tile base.

Installing real stone tiles

The porous surface of many natural stone products makes them more vulnerable to staining than glazed tiles. Look at the manufacturer's instructions for precise laying instructions and always seal the surfaces with the tiles, if recommended, before fixing it's all too easy to spill adhesive over a tile and not notice. Open the tile packs and work from the 3 major packs to evenly distribute any color variation between packs.

Tiling the ground

With a little planning and careful aiming, dramatic stone flooring can be as easy as tiling a wall. There's usually less cutting around awkward shapes as compared to wall tiles and you are not fighting against gravity. Remove skirting boards and door thresholds before starting work. In the starting off stages, it's important to ensure the tiles look directly from the entrance to the room. Often walls are bowed or from true so check your measurements in many places along each wall. It is slightly more but a powder mix rapid-setting adhesive is the greatest option for most floors. It will reach full strength within 24 hours so the remaining build isn't delayed.

Finally, plan in a movement joints required. These are 6/8mm wide and full of flexible filler that enables for movement and prevents tile damage. These joints are usually installed where flooring abuts walling, steps, columns or other hard objects on large floor areas and over structural movement joints. Floors under four meters between walls won't normally need movement joints.

STEP-BY-STEP

1 Discover the mid-points of the two longest walls and snap a chalk line across the room between these points. Repeat for that shorter walls but adjust the road so that it passes through the center of the first line at right angles. Try to work with as many whole tiles as possible, even if it means adjusting the grout line width slightly.

2 Lay tiles over the two lines to ascertain if they look right from the entranceway. If any gaps on the walls are less than half a tile wide, shift the line across to make much more of a gap. Also move the guide lines to ensure that tiles around a dominant feature (e.g. a hearth or French windows) are symmetrical there are whole tiles in the doorway.

3 Spread about one square meter of tile adhesive/grout into one of many right angles produced by the two crossing chalk lines. Scrap the notched side of the trowel across the mix to form ridges of the same thickness.

4 Lay the first few tiles along the side of the longest center line. Gently press the tiles into place, making sure they also fall into line with the other center line. Add plastic spacers each and every corner to keep them the identical distance apart for grouting.

5 Work outwards from the middle of the room til you have laid all the whole tiles on one half of the floor. Make use of a spirit level to check the tiles are at the same level. Now move across for the other side of the longest center line and add the rest of the whole tiles. Leave to create for 24 hours.

6 Utilize the tile cutter to trim the advantage tiles to the right shape. Appraise the space at both sides in case the walls are uneven please remember to allow for the grouting gap. Always wear goggles and gloves when cutting tiles.

7 Leave the adhesive to create for at least 12 hours, then grout involving the tiles with the adhesive/grout. Force a combination into the gaps having a squeegee, working from side to side or more and down the tiles.

8 For wide joint lines, operate a piece of hosepipe over the grouting surface. Wipe off any grout from the tiles with a damp sponge, before it sets hard.

Wall tiling

Gemstone tiles add a touch of luxury to your rooms. There's no special trick to locating out how many tiles you will need, just measure the height and width of the area and multiply these together to provide the area to be tiled. Divide this figure through the area of a single tile (e.g. a 10x10cm tile posseses an area of 100cm) to give the amount of tiles you need. Add 10 % for cutting and wastage. Installation matches for ceramic tiles however, you will need an electric tile cutter using a diamond wheel and also the capacity to tackle your chosen depth of tile. Most natural stone is easier to cut than ceramic. The excess weight of real stone also need to be considered use strong battens, no less than 50mm wide and screwed towards the wall, to support the base line of tiles.

Make use of a saw tile to reduce a tile to suit around an awkward shape for instance a pipe or architrave. If you need to cut a curve, to suit around the side of the basin for example, make a card template exactly the same size as the tile. Make cuts about 10mm spacing along the curve edge and press website into position. Trim the 10mm strips to suit exactly around the curve and transfer this fit around the tile. Be sure you leave at least 2mm for grouting.

STEP-BY-STEP

1 To prevent lots of cut tiles or perhaps an unbalanced look, make up a tile gauge (a batten using the tile dimensions and grout spaces marked across the edge) to plan the positions of the tiles so that the tops of the last row of tiles under any window is going to be exactly flush with all the ledge. You may find you will need to cut the bottom row of tiles.

2 Screw a batten for the wall along the line you have marked. Check with a spirit level it's horizontal. Fix another upright batten along the left side from the area to be tiled. Again, work with a spirit level to make certain it's vertical.

3 Spread the adhesive/grout over most a square meter with the wall, starting in the corner made by the two battens. Use the notched side of the spreader to form even ribbons of adhesive. This is particularly important for heavy stone tiles. As a rule of thumb, 6mm notched spreaders can be used for walls and 10mm versions for floors.

4 Learn to tile, pressing the tiles gently to the wall and sliding into position before you see adhesive squeeze out across the sides. Press spacers into each corner and hold a spirit level throughout the tiles to see if they form a set surface. Continue to tile, focusing on about a square meter at the same time until you've fixed all of the whole tiles. Clean off adhesive from your tile surface when you work.

5 Next, lay tiles along the sides and front of the window reveal so they cover the edges of the wall tiles. Wipe off any adhesive before it has dried with a damp sponge.

6 Leave the splashback to dry fully before removing the timber battens. Now cut the tiles to match into any gaps in the bottom of the splashback and at the front and sides with the window reveal. Fix in place.

7 When all the tiles are fixed, leave to dry. Force more adhesive/grout to the gaps between the tiles using a squeegee. Wipe off all the excess grout with a damp sponge, rinsed out regularly in clean water. When the surface is dry, polish having a dry cloth.

8 To create a flexible waterproof seal new tiles along with a worktop, run a bead of waterproof sealant round the bottom of the tiles.

TIPS

If you're tiling around an acrylic bath, half fill with water to make the rim flex to its maximum extent before filling the space with a bathroom sealant.

Make screw holes for bathroom accessories having a masonry drill bit. To avoid the bit slipping and damaging the outer lining, stick some masking tape over the area to be drilled.

Buy all of the tiles you will need at one time if possible to avoid any differences between batches.

If you wish to form a pattern, draw a strategy of the room on graph paper to make certain the pattern will appear in proportion and symmetrical.

To tile an area that has to be used everyday, tile half of the area at any given time so you can still walk over the bare floor while the tile adhesive sets. If you learn you are working slowly and also the adhesive is beginning setting, only spread around half a square meter at the same time. It's essential the adhesive remains wet when the tiles are increasingly being fixed.

Fireplaces

Stone Fireplaces really are a defining feature for any lounge or living area, making the perfect frame with a wood, coal or gas fire. Of course, any chimney linings needs to be pre-installed in your self-build project and the surround really does come at the final stages from the project. Most companies give you a design and install service that's well worth the money for such large and expensive objects. Otherwise, look at builder is happy to battle the job. It may need extra lifting equipment however the installation process isn't complicated. You are able to choose anything from the clean lines of your contemporary fireplace to a reproduction Regency style or make contact with an architectural salvage yard for a genuine period piece. Most yards will even undertake restoration focus on stone and marble fireplaces.

Baths and basins

Baths, basins and washstands can be either stone resin or solid stone. There's a wide range of colors offered by off-whites to reds, browns and blacks. Remember the loading on a suspended floor baths can weigh from 200 to 500kg or even more.

As well as the luxury of the solid stone basin, some of the modern designs may also be breathtaking, with open wave forms, travertine mosaic and deceptively thin slab designs.

Worktops

Granite is the most popular of the natural stonework surfaces. It's easy to clean and contrasts well with lighter wood carcases. Marble and limestone look nice but are softer and can scratch or stain. When you plan your kitchen, guarantee the runs of floor cabinets can withstands weights up to 90kgs per square meter average for a 30mm solid granite top. You may also specify 40mm tops, made from two 20mm layers using a ply central insert to reduce the weight. Your kitchen supplier should alter the design and add extra support around sink cut-outs and appliances. The suppliers will also need a clear work area so all sinks and hobs ought to be removed and kept free from the work area. If you're able to, don't install the wall sockets until following the worktop is fitted this can avoid any accidental damage because the stone is slid into place over the units. With regards to the shape and size of each element, the suppliers may suggest extra joints in solid granite worktops because the grain structure can be quite vulnerable to cracking if there's any stress over longer lengths or around narrow cut-out areas. Be sure to order matching granite up-stands

for that walls. These are around 100m high with polished surfaces and edges. Color-matched silicone sealant is utilized for the jointing. As with sanitary items, composite quartzite is able to reduce the price of the kitchen but nonetheless give some of the solidity and feel of a real stone. Additionally, it has the advantage of grain consistency and a wide range of solid reds, blues, greens and more neutral tones.

Cleaning and maintenance

stone wall - Keep a copy with the care and maintenance instructions supplied with your stonework as sealants and care procedures vary. Granite surfaces for example worktops don't need an excessive amount of specialist cleaning as the surface doesn't absorb stains in the same manner as a softer travertine stone.

Wipe up any spills as fast as possible, especially liquids for example acidic juices and alcohol. Fine grit is the big enemy of gemstone flooring as ground in particles cause striations than eventually dull the top. Use a mop, soft brush or vacuum to collect up the dirt. A neutral pH detergent and warm water will remove grease along with other light stains but guarantee the floor is dried using a soft cloth to avoid a film build of residues.

Stone should really need resealing every 3-5 years or so and some products won't ever need resealing. After installing any gemstone, it's essential to clean up any mortar/adhesive residue right away as the resin-based adhesives bond' the stone surface and therefore are extremely difficult to clean up when cured. For kitchen and bathroom installations, avoid using any wax or soap cleaners for around the first six weeks. Otherwise, the stone pores will end up clogged and restrict the evaporation in the mortar/adhesive.